23 October 2006

River of History

296 miles into my River walk, I am beginning to understand and appreciate the valuable contributions and historical importance of the Mississippi River. This River has helped to shape the United States both physically and culturally.

After leaving New Roads, I came across the Old River Lock. Old River is the most amazing site along the entire Mississippi. In a word, the Corps of Engineers are successfully (for now) holding back the Mississippi and preventing it from changing course down the Atchafalaya. Should this change happen, the result would be the destruction of the Atchafalaya ecosystem and the inevitable loss of New Orleans and all the industry along the lower Mississippi. The Mississippi's existing channel would turn into a salt water estuary.

Look at a map of the state of Louisiana and you can see it is shaped something like a boot. Over the course of many millennia the bottom half of that boot has been created by the Mississippi. Southern Louisiana is built entirely of river sediment carried by water from as far away as the Rocky Mountains. As the Jefferson River gushes down a Montana mountainside it picks up little bits of that mountain and carts them off to the Missouri River. As the Wabash flows through prime Indiana farm land it picks up some of that land and carries it to the Ohio River. The process is cumulative until finally, the Mississippi, loaded with two million tons per day of washed away mountain and farm field, reaches sea level and slows down enough to unburden its load in southern Louisiana.

To build up all of southern Louisiana, the Mississippi has had to move around. Every couple of millennia it takes a major turn, abandons it's old channel, and finds a new one. The last time this happened was at the site where Donaldsonville now sits. Bayou Lafourche used to be the Mississippi. The next time this will happen will be at Old River.

And the next time that will happen I’ll hopefully be further north along the Mississippi and away from Old River.

Since leaving the Old River Lock, I’ve been heading north to Vidalia, by walking along Highway #15 which climbs on top of the levee, on the side, at the foot of, or near the levee, passing through miles and miles of plantation country.

As I walk through this rich agricultural countryside dotted with an occasional building complex, I try to imagine that at one time these fields provided cotton that was loaded onto ships, that floated down the Mississippi to New Orleans where it was transferred to ocean-going vessels that sailed into eastern ports or across the Atlantic. This region, like many others in the South, traded agricultural crops for manufactured goods. During the early 19th century it was of enormous interest to this region not to have tariffs on imported manufactured goods from Europe. With the Tariff Act of 1828 (known as the “tariff of abominations), discontent broke out in the South and the seeds of the Civil War were planted.

I’ll be in the small town of Vidalia soon. This is where I’ll cross the River for the third time, leaving Louisiana behind and entering into Mississippi.

09 October 2006

New Roads and False River

After walking about 242 miles from Venice, Louisiana, I’m now northwest of Baton Rouge and heading towards the Mississippi / Louisiana state border. Just ahead of me is a small town called New Roads. For a town with such a simpe name, New Roads has a very interesting history.

In 1699 the French explorer Iberville discovered a point on the Mississippi River where the river doubled back on itself. Time and high waters eventually allowed the river to change its course, taking the short cut and avoiding the 22-mile curve. The resulting oxbow lake was called "Fausse Riviere" in French, now, False River.

In 1822 a free woman of color named Catherine Depau, nicknamed "la fille Gougis," developed the original six-block area of town, now bounded False River, New Roads, St. Mary and Second Streets. Street signs in this area bear original names in French, as well as their current names. Eventually taking the name of New Roads, the town became the seat of parish government in 1847, and began to thrive.

This area was one of the earliest settlements in the entire Louisiana Purchase, where it attracted planters to farm its rich fertile delta soil. Some of the nation’s largest sugar plantations are still thriving on land surrounding the City of New Roads.

Settlers built homes ranging from stately plantation “great houses” to modest cottages. Fortunately the majority of these homes are still standing today making Pointe Coupee Parish and New Roads the largest surviving pocket of Creole architecture in Louisiana today. Many structures dotting False River date from the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries.

I’ll be staying a short while in this little slice of history. It's truly a beautiful town. How could I possibly miss the Main Street Scarecrow Contest starting today. I met a very nice young couple who are letting me stay at their place. I’m excited because I have never made a scarecrow before. I’m looking forward to working on it tomorrow. I did see a scarecrow in a field earlier yesterday, but, well, this scarecrow wasn’t scary (check out the photo at my site). Afterwards, I think I’ll walk along the False River and try my hand at fishing and if time and weather allow, a little water skiing.

Pictures below: False River Boating, Cementary, Not Too Scary Scarecrow (click on pictures below for bigger image)

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False River, an Oxbow Lake

False River is a classic example of an oxbow lake. An oxbow lake is a lake formed by the past channel of a river. These features come in all sizes. The size (length, amplitude and radius of curvature) is related to the discharge of the river, stream or bayou. The meander size of False River leaves no doubt that a river with a discharge similar to the Mississippi River formed it. The presence of abandoned stream channels that connect False River to the Mississippi River is proof that, at some point in past history, this oxbow lake was indeed the active channel of the Mississippi River.

Hazy Daze are Back Again

Walking is becoming hazardous outside. The haze, blamed on 'slash and burn' farming methods in Indonesia is blanketing Kuala Lumpur again. The photos below tell the story. Both were taken from the peak of one of the hills in the jungle near my home. In the clear picture you can just see the 'Petronas Twin Towers', once the tallest building in the world. The picture taken yesterday... well, use your imagination. There's a city out there somewhere.

Brian