Crabbing my Way North

13 August 2005


I spent time this week helping Uncle Noonoo, an old man I met at a small store along LA23. Noonoo crabs for a living. It's a job that earns him enough money to buy food and drink for himself and diesel for his boat with a little left over for a few games of bouree' (see below for rules of play) at 'The Dump', the local bar where all the fishermen hang out and play cards. Every morning we'd wake up at 5:00 and head out to Two Sisters Bayou just off of Bay Sanbois. Crabs are caught in wire cages (see photo) that are baited with chicken or pig parts. The cages are set along the bottom of the bayou and are marked with red painted Clorox jugs floating on the surface of the bayou. Every morning I'd raise the cages, empty out the crabs (not an easy task cause their claws will grip each other and the cage), re-bait the traps and toss them back into the Bayou. For my help Uncle Noonoo gave me a place to sleep in his camp (see photo) just outside of Port Sulphur and enough spending money to head back out on the road.


I left Uncle Noonoo Saturday morning and headed north along the river on LA23. I walked past the West Pointe a La Hache Ferry landing and considered crossing the river and heading into New Orleans from the East Bank. But decided to stay with LA23 and head into New Orleans from the West Bank so that I could walk through Old Algiers and see the house my friend JP used to live in. He now lives in Texas after being chased away by Katrina last year. The house is now for sale and I thought it would be nice to see the old neighborhood again. From there I can cross the river by ferry (No way am I walking over the Greater New Orleans Bridge) and be just on the outskirts of the French Quarter.

I should be reaching New Orleans by next weekend. I can already taste the beignets and rich chicory coffee. It will be such a relief to finish this southern trek along the river. To my right I can see the levee and boats in the river. To my left I see old homes, camps, and marshlands. It's still quiet on the bayous south of New Orleans in Plaquemines Parish and I long for meeting more people.

Brian, still heading north on LA23



Bouree':
1. Put up your "mease" (Ante up) We usually played 5 cents ante and 25 cents if you are boureed (don't win a hand).
2. Dealers hands out 5 cards to each player. (if you have 5 or less players a Widow can be dealt. This is an extra hand that can be bought by one of the players.)
3. The dealer turns over his 5th card. This is trump for the game. (if dealer turns over a heart, hearts are trump, if a club is turned over, club is trump, etc.)
4. Each player will decide if they want to stay in or pass. (You must have at least one trump to stay in.) The player to the dealer's left will tell how many cards he/she wants (if he/she has no trumps, then the widow can be bought...this is optional)
5. Each player tells the dealer how many cards they want. When a card is played, you must follow suit. If you don't have one of whatever is played, you can play a trump card or any other card.
6. At the end of play, the one who wins the most hands(tricks) wins and takes the pot. If you fail to win a hand(trick), you must pay 25 cents bouree'. (This goes in the next pot)